Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Broken Clutch
Wednesday, December 01, 2010
On the Eve of World AIDS Day...
Monday, August 23, 2010
Sticking Out
Our eyes lock. Now I am sure it is going to happen. Confrontation is set in motion. I am not in the mood to play this game. I didn't mind playing it while I was living here, but not today.
"See them?" JC nods behind me. I don't turn around, it would be obvious. "Time for them to make some money. The end of the month is a long way off."
I resist the urge to turn around and look. I had seen the police truck slowly go down the road, and had seen it make a U-turn, now I could only assume that they had set up a road block directly behind us. I thought I could do it inconspicuously, turn around, see where they were. But I didn't do it conspicuously, it was obvious. And then as he had pulled over a car for no reason, he looked at me. I don't know if I really saw it, or sensed it, but there was a grin.
I equaled money. I bet he was certain I would pay the bribe.
Maybe it was all imagined, but I knew I stuck out. What white person would be hanging out in
I remember the night I asked my friends how exactly I was suppose to approach bribing the cops. Ironically I asked at dinner one night, and then a few days later I was pulled over. I didn't need to flash some cash, in stead when the officers saw my stethoscope, I was immediately let off. Even though I had a valid drivers license, a fully registered car that was insured, as well as a car which has recently passed a safety inspections, I knew that none of those would mean shit if I were pulled over, and said policeman needed some drinking money. But I soon learned that having my hospital ID card, and a stethoscope would keep the cops respectful. Perhaps it was simply bad Karma to detain a doctor. Though, I should mention that my colleagues had plenty of stories of speeding at night, being pulled over, and simply lying that they were on their way to the hospital, often to try and save the life of a dying child, or a sick pregnant lady. While living here, I did learn how to manipulate the truth.
But I had no desire to lie today. I didn't have a stethoscope or my old Bara ID to back me up. (Though I almost brought it with me for just that reason). I had no desire because I was looking forward to spending the day with a friend and his family. I also was annoyed at having been pegged the sore thumb. It didn't seem odd to me to be here in
In my time here, JC taught me a lot. The focus of our conversation often went to politics. As I tried to figure out how the hell it was that Mugabe has kept such a long rein on Zim, and wondered why MDC hadn't been able to overthrow him, or why the people hadn't risen up against the government, JC would explain the deeper issues which precluded these actions from happening. I had deep admiration for him, and his wife. Would I have the smarts to flee my home, and figure out a way to survive in a foreign country? Not just survive, but to rebuild a life in a country in which a year earlier the local has sought to actively kill foreigners. Xenophobia was alive and well. And sadly xenophobia is alive and maybe still well? Ug. Months ago JC emailed me that he was working, as a teacher. This man continues to humble me. I couldn't wait to see him and his family.
The night before, I was having dinner with Juno, who had been one of the ID consultants that I worked with. When I told her I was going to be seeing JC the following day, she asked for his number, saying they had lost contact since she had left Bara. Ironically, when I saw JC earlier in the week, he said he hadn't been able to get in touch with Juno, and though he has lost her number. I didn't hesitate to give patients at Bara my personal mobile phone number, but I felt this made me stick outalmost as an overly sympathetic doc. This was frowned on by many of my co-registrars (residents), but to those in the HIV clinic, it was a standard practice. The ethos was that as their clinicians, the patients needed to be able to get in contact with their physician should problems ariseday or night, or even weekends. It was an ethos that I firmly believed in. For years I had told my clinic patients back in
And so there I was, standing outside with JC; a white foreigner talking to a black foreigner, in a neighborhood in which "I didn't belong" while under the watchful eye of one of
JC, his wife, and daughter and I got into my Mazda, and backed out into traffic. The policeman was in the middle of the road. I felt my heart rate pick up; the adrenaline was certainly flowing a bit quicker in expectation of the confrontation which was moments away. Our eyes locked for a second time. Where my actions came from, I'm not sure, but I simply waved and smiled as I rolled down my window and said hello and just kept driving Confrontation averted, that time.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Reflections from Jo'burg
[It has been a long time since I felt compelled to write. This is overdue, and a culmination of the influences of many friends, people, places, and experiences.]
At one point just over a week ago, I just sat down alone to contemplate the mess that I felt I had gotten myself into. "Mess" is a somewhat pessimistic word, but that is what it felt like. I was unsettled. There I was, in
I had a ticket booked to
I tried to figure out which principles should guide my decision: professional goals/obligations, financial goals/obligations, my own ethos (the fact that I had basically given my word to a future job that I would be there on Sept 7). There were multiple options. Go back to the
Somewhere over the
As the plane started to descend, we flew just to the east of the city, in a path that went south past city center and then made a u-turn coming into the airport from the south end. Before making the curve back to OR Tambo Airport, I got one of the best overviews of
And then it hit me, I was home. This is home. This is where I had the best year of my life (well, aside from the year I was 5, which was a pretty great year too). Some of my best friendships were made here. Some of the most meaningful work experiences happened here. I still picture many of my patients from Bara, and often think about how they are doing or if they are even still alive. Some of the most heart-wrenching deaths happened here, like the death of four year old KR. Some of the most bizarre things I have ever read happened here (cops vs. cops in shootout was a newspaper headline).
I felt an urge to get off the plane, get into my car, and just drive, at once, to all my favorite places. Instead, Andrew and David met me at the airport and then we went to lunch and had a great time catching up. When it took me two hours to get a new SIM card so I could have a SA phone number, I just had to laugh at the annoyance of going to 8 different stores in 2 different malls to find one. I was home.
I think that, somehow, I knew I needed to come back to Jo'burg for other reasons. My friends here would have understood had I bailed on my trip. But I knew that being here would give me some down-time to go back to those issues from above and to figure out my next game plan. I also needed to be here to spend time figuring out what the fuck happened in the year since I had left.
When I left, I knew I would be back. I was so certain of this, that I almost didn't bother to sell my car. I wasn't sure I would be back in
Days before I left
The highlights from the past year pale in comparison to the previous year (
By far, the best highlights were my trips to
My experiences, thought, in
What was most impressive though, was the almost-sacrifice-type commitment that people had made to be there. People were volunteering there because they wanted to be there. Everybody had paid their own airfare to be there. Some were using vacation time. Some were on summer breaks between college or masters programs. Yet others came to PaP in-between careers, and one made a career change partly influenced by being in PaP. Upon that background, volunteers slept in tents (either on cots or sometimes just sleeping pads), often showered under a garden hose, and spent most of the time confined to the camp where we were working. It was a pleasure to work with that crew, they were perhaps the most down-to-earth hardworking team I've ever worked with.
There was another element which I hadn't experienced, and that is one of the full humanitarian roll-out process, and working amongst the presence of so many different aid organizations, both governmental and NGO. At times I was amazed at the lack of coordination amongst the large groups, all working in their own microcosm in the middle of this city which has been destroyed. The allure of the UN was also enjoyable. Meeting UN soldiers from
I departed PaP on a Friday, arriving late to my place in
Less than 48 hours after the exam, I was on a flight to
I'm envious of my friends who are still working in PaP, more envious of those who I know will be returning there before me, and still even more envious of those who are doing humanitarian work, as their career. I am humbled by those who are forging ahead and making it work. I look forward to the day that I can rejoin my J/P pals, on a permanent basis, sleeping in the tent, wondering if the chicken we are eating were the chickens that were alive out back a few hours ago, bracing for the onslaught of another Monday clinic. I look forward to the day when Chris calls me from
And so, I find myself again contemplating where things are headed. This time, I am not sitting in the tortuous heat of
Keep a tent open for me, I will be back.
Soon.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Passion. Is it Dengue or Malaria? 100 Days.
When word came that I was going to be pulled out of pediatrics and be sent to Tent 4 my colleagues from MA went to the director to protest. "He can't be pulled from peds, that's where he is needed, he knows what's going on with all those kids." But I saw Tent 4 as a challenge. 35 female patients. And a test to flexibility. That's the gift of being dually trained in internal medicine and peds, I can treat both. So when the schedule came out in the morning, I went to Tent 4, starting anew with women who had shattered pelvises, shattered femurs, nasty wounds, hypertension, diabetes, and one with extreme heart failure. (Tent 4 had been run by a doc from MA who had been in the first med-peds class where I do my residency. 23 years ago, she took a year off from residency to work in Kenya for a year. She and I are the only ones to ever take a year off from residency-we bonded quickly). The temperature in the tent approached close to 100 degrees on the worst days. But the work was so invigorating...
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Departing Haiti
For days i dreaded leaving Milot and the Crudem hospital. It was perhaps one of the most intense, moving, and meaningful experiences. I have been on the bus today napping, and thinking about "my" patients. The 50 kids we took care of on peds, and then the 35 women i took care of the past few days.
I dreaded saying the goodbye. Trying to imagine how it would feel top be in there shoes, a constant change of doctors and nurses coming and going. Building a relationship, and then then departing. I became quickly attached to many people, patients, fanmily, and Haitian staff.
I was afraid i would lose my composure when i announced to the peds ward, and theb my female tent that i was leaving. But by the time i made my last round at 8pm last night, i was so exhausted that it was a non-emotional goodbye.
I know it won't be long until I am back.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Impending Departure
I wont be ready to leave. It will be tough to say goodbye, and i will wonder what happened to the kids who have been orphaned-who have had their parents killed. I will wonder about our amputees and if they get their prostheses. I will wonder about the women in my adult tent with their pelvic fractures who are bed bound.
When i leave, part of me will remain. But I am sure it won't be long until I am back here.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Haiti
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Off the Grid
Monday, January 11, 2010
Decision
It's a 180 degree about-face from where I thought I was going to be that day I got on a plane to move back to America. I was certain I would be moving back to somewhere in Africa in the summer of 2010. I-Was-Certain. It'll be good to make some money to appease the student loan people. It will be good to spend some time growing as a physician. It will be good to spend some time with family (especially nieces, nephews, godkids and all the other kids). But it won't be long... Won't be long til I'm driving on the left side of the road, or taking off somewhere where I don't speak the language..
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Losing Clarity
Sunday, December 06, 2009
I'm not just picking a job
Contemplating bigger issues.
I don't know where I'm going
But, I sure know where I've been
Hanging on the promises
In songs of yesterday
An' I've made up my mind
I ain't wasting no more time
But, here I go again
Here I go again
Tho' I keep searching for an answer
I never seem to find what I'm looking for
Oh Lord, I pray
You give me strength to carry on
Cos I know what it means
To walk along the lonely street of dreams
An' here I go again on my own
Goin' down the only road I've ever known
Like a drifter I was born to walk alone
An' I've made up my mind
I ain't wasting no more time
I'm just another heart in need of rescue
Waiting on love's sweet charity
An' I'm gonna hold on
For the rest of my days
Cos I know what it means
To walk along the lonely street of dreams
An' here I go again on my own
Going down the only road I've ever known
Like a drifter I was born to walk alone
An' I've made up my mind
I ain't wasting no more time
But here I go again
Here I go again
Here I go again
Here I go again
Cos I know what it means
To walk along the lonely street of dreams
An' here I go again on my own
Going down the only road I've ever known
Like a drifter I was born to walk alone
An' I've made up my mind
I ain't wasting no more time
An' here I go again on my own
Going down the only road I've ever known
Like a drifter I was born to walk alone
Cos I know what it means
To walk along the lonely street of dreams
Friday, November 27, 2009
Guns and Russian Food
Last Saturday while killing time driving around waiting for a party to start, I found a Russian restaurant. Which wasn't such a surprise because I live in the Russian/Polish part of the city. But this place was open late. Very late. And there were people inside. This place looks authentic (and like a mafia hang out). And I am desperate to go. I suggested it to a few co-workers, a few of whom seemed interested, but more than one said "but I don't even know what they eat."
And that's the point. I don't know what it feels like when you shoot a handgun. I don't know what it feels like to sit down in a Russian restaurant (where I may damn well stick out like a sore thumb), and order something that I may have no clue about. That to me, is the reason to do both.
I was able to leave work early this afternoon, a damn rarity these days. And all I really wanted was to be in Johannesburg. Thinking of the time difference, I knew that the guys would already have decided where to go for dinner. It'd be too early to eat. Maybe I'd be in the gym, or out for a run, thinking about which of my few shirts I'd wear to dinner. And then a few hours later we'd be gathers, and would be out for ages, trying new places to eat, enjoying a night out. Later on, as I was tempted to call my pals in Jo'burg, I realized it was getting a bit late. But as I thought about it, I imagined a Friday night in Jo'burg, it's summer, I bet they were sitting outside on the patio of S&S, on the umpteenth bottle of wine, listening to music, and just making the most of the night.
Fuck. Why can't I be there. Every single day I find myself thinking about where I was a year ago at this time. And every single day I wish I could go back. I have these great friends here, but the confines of residency, plus the effects of perpetual fatigue, and a cohort of friends who are mostly married/partnered (+ kids) doesn't allow for the randomness and social scene which I so dearly enjoyed last year. And that, I have realized was sustaining. This is not. I'm slightly disappointed in myself though, I must confess. I am a solo traveler, and so often have been more than content to strike out on my own, be it for a day, a week, or a month. I use to find things to do, places to go, and do them, and go there. But being back here, where I have a few great friends, and know tons of people, I end up feeling that it's not worth my time to go solo. When in fact, it would be much less disappointing to strike out on my own..
Recently, I've realized the need to take the above into consideration for jobs... The job that pays a boat-load, in the middle of nowhere sounds attractive, but the long term longevity of that job would be poor. Unfortunately one of the jobs which I thought was a sure deal has hit a bit of a snag-and that caught me a bit by surprise. I'm very close to tossing in the towel on the job search, talking to my locums (aka travelling fill-in doctor) agent, and going that route which will allow me the freedom to travel.
In the meantime, I'm going to go shoot some guns and eat some borsch. (Maybe on my own).
-
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Running, Again? Running, Away?
I put on my ipod to my running mix, the same mix of 164 songs that I've had for years, and set off. I turned the corner and headed down Route 5. I don't know what it was that took me back in an instant to that first night I ran in Dublin. Maybe it was running along a busy road (there, it had been South Circular Road), maybe it was the cool, misty night air. Maybe it was knowing that my legs were going to be sore in the morning, as I was biting off more than I should by hitting the pavement, but I felt like I'd gone back in time. And for a few blocks, maybe a mile (I wish I could say a few miles), I kept having flashbacks to my running progress in Dublin. After that first run, I couldn't run for a week. And then I ran around a park for a while, a meager few blocks, and then I was running more. Running along the River Liffey. Running through Dublin-no longer embarrassed to be out running. As I changed my running route, I discovered new areas to run in Dublin. New Parks I had never explored. New pubs which I made a mental note to check out, though usually forgot about once I got home. When a certain song plays when running, I can recall exactly where I was in Dublin during certain runs...
I turned the block, and ran past an Indian restaurant. And that triggered a flashback to a night when I went running during my intern year. A cold night. I'd run from my flat, down to the hospital, and around a neighborhood. I'd run past Gabby's house- and saw she wasn't home, and I wasn't sure why she and I had not talked in a few days-both busy I'd suspected. The Indian restaurant I was passing is where she took me for my birthday, and the conversation that night is permanently etched in my memory. We were going to make the world a better place. She wouldn't let me sell out, and as I ran, I thought what advice she'd be giving me now. "Fuck those job offers, are you kidding me, there are people out there who really need our help." She didn't hold back. And I miss that. She gave me coffee and a tie for my birthday. I don't wear that tie nearly enough. Maybe I'll wear it tomorrow.
I was lost in thought. Am I running to somewhere? Or am I running from something? For months I've agonized where my paths is going. I've solicited (both bluntly and circuitously) the insight from friends, sometimes hoping that one or two of them would pin me down and spell it out for me. Because I cannot see the path anymore. When my world crashed in July and August, all I could think of was Denver. On more than one occasion in the past 4 months, I contemplated flying out to Denver the following morning, fuck residency. Having the support from my family when I did see them in July, and the joy of hanging out with nieces and nephews, combined with the awesomeness of Denver made it clear, that Denver is where I thought I needed to go, and the ball was set in motion. On a Saturday in September, after Randall's memorial, I was sitting outside drinking margaritas and chowing down Nachos, surrounded by a great group of people; it was again evident that Denver is where I was headed.
I was lost in thought, until I saw a dodgy person on the sidewalk with a German shepherd. I'm in a residential neighborhood, in a safe part of town. This is not Johannesburg. I am safe here. He nods as I run past. More than once, in Jo'burg, I had crossed the street, or taken a turn and changed my path when I was running and saw a group of people on the street at night. It had taken me months to work up the courage to run there. I miss running in the nature reserve; I miss seeing zebras and wildebeests on runs. I miss Jo'burg, period. And then I heard Gabby again, and I wonder if I am running from the thing I really want to do, to oblige the banks who loaned me the vast sums of money so I could get to this point.
As I reach the driveway, the only Jewel song in this mix, Who Will Save Your Soul starts playing. I smile as I stretch. Maybe the answer is neither. I'm not running to nor from somewhere/something.
I'm just running...
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