Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Broken Clutch
Wednesday, December 01, 2010
On the Eve of World AIDS Day...
Monday, August 23, 2010
Sticking Out
Our eyes lock. Now I am sure it is going to happen. Confrontation is set in motion. I am not in the mood to play this game. I didn't mind playing it while I was living here, but not today.
"See them?" JC nods behind me. I don't turn around, it would be obvious. "Time for them to make some money. The end of the month is a long way off."
I resist the urge to turn around and look. I had seen the police truck slowly go down the road, and had seen it make a U-turn, now I could only assume that they had set up a road block directly behind us. I thought I could do it inconspicuously, turn around, see where they were. But I didn't do it conspicuously, it was obvious. And then as he had pulled over a car for no reason, he looked at me. I don't know if I really saw it, or sensed it, but there was a grin.
I equaled money. I bet he was certain I would pay the bribe.
Maybe it was all imagined, but I knew I stuck out. What white person would be hanging out in
I remember the night I asked my friends how exactly I was suppose to approach bribing the cops. Ironically I asked at dinner one night, and then a few days later I was pulled over. I didn't need to flash some cash, in stead when the officers saw my stethoscope, I was immediately let off. Even though I had a valid drivers license, a fully registered car that was insured, as well as a car which has recently passed a safety inspections, I knew that none of those would mean shit if I were pulled over, and said policeman needed some drinking money. But I soon learned that having my hospital ID card, and a stethoscope would keep the cops respectful. Perhaps it was simply bad Karma to detain a doctor. Though, I should mention that my colleagues had plenty of stories of speeding at night, being pulled over, and simply lying that they were on their way to the hospital, often to try and save the life of a dying child, or a sick pregnant lady. While living here, I did learn how to manipulate the truth.
But I had no desire to lie today. I didn't have a stethoscope or my old Bara ID to back me up. (Though I almost brought it with me for just that reason). I had no desire because I was looking forward to spending the day with a friend and his family. I also was annoyed at having been pegged the sore thumb. It didn't seem odd to me to be here in
In my time here, JC taught me a lot. The focus of our conversation often went to politics. As I tried to figure out how the hell it was that Mugabe has kept such a long rein on Zim, and wondered why MDC hadn't been able to overthrow him, or why the people hadn't risen up against the government, JC would explain the deeper issues which precluded these actions from happening. I had deep admiration for him, and his wife. Would I have the smarts to flee my home, and figure out a way to survive in a foreign country? Not just survive, but to rebuild a life in a country in which a year earlier the local has sought to actively kill foreigners. Xenophobia was alive and well. And sadly xenophobia is alive and maybe still well? Ug. Months ago JC emailed me that he was working, as a teacher. This man continues to humble me. I couldn't wait to see him and his family.
The night before, I was having dinner with Juno, who had been one of the ID consultants that I worked with. When I told her I was going to be seeing JC the following day, she asked for his number, saying they had lost contact since she had left Bara. Ironically, when I saw JC earlier in the week, he said he hadn't been able to get in touch with Juno, and though he has lost her number. I didn't hesitate to give patients at Bara my personal mobile phone number, but I felt this made me stick outalmost as an overly sympathetic doc. This was frowned on by many of my co-registrars (residents), but to those in the HIV clinic, it was a standard practice. The ethos was that as their clinicians, the patients needed to be able to get in contact with their physician should problems ariseday or night, or even weekends. It was an ethos that I firmly believed in. For years I had told my clinic patients back in
And so there I was, standing outside with JC; a white foreigner talking to a black foreigner, in a neighborhood in which "I didn't belong" while under the watchful eye of one of
JC, his wife, and daughter and I got into my Mazda, and backed out into traffic. The policeman was in the middle of the road. I felt my heart rate pick up; the adrenaline was certainly flowing a bit quicker in expectation of the confrontation which was moments away. Our eyes locked for a second time. Where my actions came from, I'm not sure, but I simply waved and smiled as I rolled down my window and said hello and just kept driving Confrontation averted, that time.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Reflections from Jo'burg
[It has been a long time since I felt compelled to write. This is overdue, and a culmination of the influences of many friends, people, places, and experiences.]
At one point just over a week ago, I just sat down alone to contemplate the mess that I felt I had gotten myself into. "Mess" is a somewhat pessimistic word, but that is what it felt like. I was unsettled. There I was, in
I had a ticket booked to
I tried to figure out which principles should guide my decision: professional goals/obligations, financial goals/obligations, my own ethos (the fact that I had basically given my word to a future job that I would be there on Sept 7). There were multiple options. Go back to the
Somewhere over the
As the plane started to descend, we flew just to the east of the city, in a path that went south past city center and then made a u-turn coming into the airport from the south end. Before making the curve back to OR Tambo Airport, I got one of the best overviews of
And then it hit me, I was home. This is home. This is where I had the best year of my life (well, aside from the year I was 5, which was a pretty great year too). Some of my best friendships were made here. Some of the most meaningful work experiences happened here. I still picture many of my patients from Bara, and often think about how they are doing or if they are even still alive. Some of the most heart-wrenching deaths happened here, like the death of four year old KR. Some of the most bizarre things I have ever read happened here (cops vs. cops in shootout was a newspaper headline).
I felt an urge to get off the plane, get into my car, and just drive, at once, to all my favorite places. Instead, Andrew and David met me at the airport and then we went to lunch and had a great time catching up. When it took me two hours to get a new SIM card so I could have a SA phone number, I just had to laugh at the annoyance of going to 8 different stores in 2 different malls to find one. I was home.
I think that, somehow, I knew I needed to come back to Jo'burg for other reasons. My friends here would have understood had I bailed on my trip. But I knew that being here would give me some down-time to go back to those issues from above and to figure out my next game plan. I also needed to be here to spend time figuring out what the fuck happened in the year since I had left.
When I left, I knew I would be back. I was so certain of this, that I almost didn't bother to sell my car. I wasn't sure I would be back in
Days before I left
The highlights from the past year pale in comparison to the previous year (
By far, the best highlights were my trips to
My experiences, thought, in
What was most impressive though, was the almost-sacrifice-type commitment that people had made to be there. People were volunteering there because they wanted to be there. Everybody had paid their own airfare to be there. Some were using vacation time. Some were on summer breaks between college or masters programs. Yet others came to PaP in-between careers, and one made a career change partly influenced by being in PaP. Upon that background, volunteers slept in tents (either on cots or sometimes just sleeping pads), often showered under a garden hose, and spent most of the time confined to the camp where we were working. It was a pleasure to work with that crew, they were perhaps the most down-to-earth hardworking team I've ever worked with.
There was another element which I hadn't experienced, and that is one of the full humanitarian roll-out process, and working amongst the presence of so many different aid organizations, both governmental and NGO. At times I was amazed at the lack of coordination amongst the large groups, all working in their own microcosm in the middle of this city which has been destroyed. The allure of the UN was also enjoyable. Meeting UN soldiers from
I departed PaP on a Friday, arriving late to my place in
Less than 48 hours after the exam, I was on a flight to
I'm envious of my friends who are still working in PaP, more envious of those who I know will be returning there before me, and still even more envious of those who are doing humanitarian work, as their career. I am humbled by those who are forging ahead and making it work. I look forward to the day that I can rejoin my J/P pals, on a permanent basis, sleeping in the tent, wondering if the chicken we are eating were the chickens that were alive out back a few hours ago, bracing for the onslaught of another Monday clinic. I look forward to the day when Chris calls me from
And so, I find myself again contemplating where things are headed. This time, I am not sitting in the tortuous heat of
Keep a tent open for me, I will be back.
Soon.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Passion. Is it Dengue or Malaria? 100 Days.
When word came that I was going to be pulled out of pediatrics and be sent to Tent 4 my colleagues from MA went to the director to protest. "He can't be pulled from peds, that's where he is needed, he knows what's going on with all those kids." But I saw Tent 4 as a challenge. 35 female patients. And a test to flexibility. That's the gift of being dually trained in internal medicine and peds, I can treat both. So when the schedule came out in the morning, I went to Tent 4, starting anew with women who had shattered pelvises, shattered femurs, nasty wounds, hypertension, diabetes, and one with extreme heart failure. (Tent 4 had been run by a doc from MA who had been in the first med-peds class where I do my residency. 23 years ago, she took a year off from residency to work in Kenya for a year. She and I are the only ones to ever take a year off from residency-we bonded quickly). The temperature in the tent approached close to 100 degrees on the worst days. But the work was so invigorating...
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Departing Haiti
For days i dreaded leaving Milot and the Crudem hospital. It was perhaps one of the most intense, moving, and meaningful experiences. I have been on the bus today napping, and thinking about "my" patients. The 50 kids we took care of on peds, and then the 35 women i took care of the past few days.
I dreaded saying the goodbye. Trying to imagine how it would feel top be in there shoes, a constant change of doctors and nurses coming and going. Building a relationship, and then then departing. I became quickly attached to many people, patients, fanmily, and Haitian staff.
I was afraid i would lose my composure when i announced to the peds ward, and theb my female tent that i was leaving. But by the time i made my last round at 8pm last night, i was so exhausted that it was a non-emotional goodbye.
I know it won't be long until I am back.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Impending Departure
I wont be ready to leave. It will be tough to say goodbye, and i will wonder what happened to the kids who have been orphaned-who have had their parents killed. I will wonder about our amputees and if they get their prostheses. I will wonder about the women in my adult tent with their pelvic fractures who are bed bound.
When i leave, part of me will remain. But I am sure it won't be long until I am back here.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Haiti
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Off the Grid
Monday, January 11, 2010
Decision
It's a 180 degree about-face from where I thought I was going to be that day I got on a plane to move back to America. I was certain I would be moving back to somewhere in Africa in the summer of 2010. I-Was-Certain. It'll be good to make some money to appease the student loan people. It will be good to spend some time growing as a physician. It will be good to spend some time with family (especially nieces, nephews, godkids and all the other kids). But it won't be long... Won't be long til I'm driving on the left side of the road, or taking off somewhere where I don't speak the language..